MAJOR Retarding from the J&S...

[GSRDPM]

...SOLVED.

This past weekend, after a few hard acceleration runs, the J&S started retarding the timing in a MAJOR way. I'm talking lights everywhere and a struggle to keep the tach moving above 6.5K RPMS. After getting off the throttle and coasting to a slower speed, I would still have some lights showing retarding. I mean I would have my foot OFF the gas pedal and I'd still have one or two lights showing on the monitor.

I repeated the runs several times with the same result - all the time, my A/F meter indicated well into the rich, even when I tried to struggle past 6.5K RPMs.

I'm like, WTF? I even looked into my rear view mirror to see if anything weird was coming out of the tailpipe!

Anyway, today I get under the hood (scary place for me)and inspect the plugs. All of them have plenty of black, dry carbon carbon deposits. (I know that indicates a rich condition - but is it necessarily a problem?)Otherwise, they look OK.

I start checking everything I can identify as holding the blower on the engine for loose bolts and everything looks OK. I notice that the black pulley (replacement) has now worn down where the belt runs against it so much that the groove is almost as thick/deep as the belt:O. There have been no sounds of belt slippage, but how much of a problem is that? Otherwise, everything looks OK.

ANY GUESSES AS TO MY PROBLEM YET?


Well, I get under the car and find out that the Knock sensor is REALLY loose. It must have been vibrating around like crazy at those higher RPMs and the J&S interpreted that racket as major detonation. I tightened it up and no more retarding under WOT - Revs right up to 8K. Still have that tip in detonation though . Oh well.

Sorry about the long post...

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Tom

1996 Cypress Green Pearl Acura Integra GSR 4 DR
JRSC with JR fuel pump upgrade
J&S Safeguard
Tokico Illumina Shocks & Eibach Pro-kit Springs
Stillen/Brembo Cross-Drilled Rotors with Goodridge SS Lines & EBC Green Stuff Pads
Dunlop D60/A2 JLBs (205 50 15) on stock 15 x 6 wheels (street)
Kumho V700 Victoracers (205 50 15) on 15x7 rims (autocross)
Century infant and booster child seats in back!!!

1995 Mercury Villager GS Minivan
General Electric Turbofan 48,000 lbs/thrust (needs some tuning...)
Retractable wheels
Twin phaser banks
Electronic countermeasures
Triphasic shielding
12 cupholders

[This message has been edited by GSRDPM (edited June 26, 2000).]

[Mr Rogers]

Same thing happend to me, I guess that we took the "Do not overtighten" thing too far. Owell, easy fix to a small problem

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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Airmass header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, RC 310's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, Ground Controls and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on a Carbon Fiber diet.

[rjaffey]

Oops,

That "don't overtighten" probably came from me. The loose knock sensor also happened to Silvino (BurntGSR). My appologies to anyone else who misinterpretted my caution there. I was merely cautioning everyone based on a report I got from John at J&S that he's had customers break the adaptors off in the block by overtightening. The adaptors are *not* as strong as real bolts and therefore cannot handle as much stretch or torque.

[lundgren]

I've seen the most noise comes during vtec crossover. I think the vtec change makes some noise.

I can relocate it anywhere with the V-afc, simply by chaning the cross-over point.

[Mr Rogers]

Well I guess they listen to you cause it ended up in the instructions but no harm done right? Just trying to watch out for everybody else

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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Airmass header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, RC 310's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, Ground Controls and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on a Carbon Fiber diet.

[GSRDPM]

The car is still running fine, but I am wondering if that pully wear is a problem. THis November, my 2-year JR "warranty" is up. Should I bother contacting them?